Fri, Aug 26th, 2016

ADVENTURES IN TONGA !

In August, Jim and I checked off an important box on our bucket list- swimming with humpback whales on the island of Tonga in the South Pacific. I have always been mesmerized by the beauty and grace of whales and they were often the subject of my early intaglio pieces. Jim convinced me that it would be worthwhile for me to use some of my latest techniques using whales as my subject. And what better place to observe whales in their native habitat than Tonga!
Tonga is a small nation of 130,000 folks in the extreme southern Pacific Ocean. Is the only island nation that was never colonized and has maintained its independence throughout history. Since it's about halfway between Fiji and New Zealand ,It's a regular stop for boats sailing around the world on their way to New Zealand from Fiji.
The pregnant females come to Tonga to have their babies and prepare them for life in the Arctic oceans. Warm, clear water, deep channels and no predators( other than man) make it a perfect nursery area for the giant ,10 ton humpbacks.
The people of Tonga have a lot in common with the people of Africa. Both are intricately linked with the wildlife that surrounds them. Both have faced, and are facing, crucial challenges in preserving their wildlife. Pollution and trash, shrinking habitat, and protection of wildlife from poachers are common threats in both places.
While in Tonga, we made contact with the Vava'u environmental protection Association and set up a conservation and creativity course for students from eight schools all over the island. Just like African kids, the children were excited by guidance in art and discussions about conservation.
The Tongan people are incredibly generous and kind people. There are no homeless people in Tonga since anyone in need is immediately helped by the local people regardless of whether they need a ride, a place to stay, or roof over their heads for weeks at a time.
Although we have been to some pretty primitive areas in Africa, Tonga represented a different kind of poverty and educational challenge. Despite having very little, like Africans, the Tongan people are extremely happy and satisfied to share whatever they have.
Like African people, the heritage and future of the Tongan people lies in preservation of their wildlife and protection of their reef and ocean habitat.

The majesty of these animals is incredible
The majesty of these animals is incredible
The majesty of these animals is incredible
2 1/2 days after leaving New Orleans we arrived at Tonga
2 1/2 days after leaving New Orleans we arrived at Tonga
Since it's right over the international date line, our trip home from Tonga was quite different. We left at 930 in the morning their time, and after 20 hours of traveling- got home at 930 New Orleans time.
2 1/2 days after leaving New Orleans we arrived at Tonga
The Tongan people honor their dead with decorated graves
The Tongan people honor their dead with decorated graves
Just like in New Orleans, funeral start out sad but end up with a celebration
The Tongan people honor their dead with decorated graves
One of the high points of the main island is this three-headed palm tree
One of the high points of the main island is this three-headed palm tree
One of the high points of the main island is this three-headed palm tree
Folks come from all over the world to watch these 40 foot Giants
Folks come from all over the world to watch these 40 foot Giants
Folks come from all over the world to watch these 40 foot Giants
Very convenient, a restaurant and finance company all in one
Very convenient, a restaurant and finance company all in one
This was Tuey's favorite lunch spot. We had a great lunch of taro ( which is sort of like a baked potato, very plain) and "LU" which is some spinach like leaves wrapped around goat meat and cooked in the ground or in a big pot. Quite tasty!
Very convenient, a restaurant and finance company all in one
Enjoying lunch with our new friend Tuey
Enjoying lunch with our new friend Tuey
Hum Good, lu and Taro- Puts you in the mood to make a loan.....
Enjoying lunch with our new friend Tuey
Chief cook and
Chief cook and" loan officer"
Chief cook and" loan officer"
Nothing like Taro and
Nothing like Taro and "Vu" at lunch!
Nothing like Taro and "Vu" at lunch!
We stopped at the local shopping center for supplies
We stopped at the local shopping center for supplies
Virtually everything in the store that wasn't dry or in cans, was frozen. Meats, cheeses, bread, everything had to be brought in by ship.
We stopped at the local shopping center for supplies
The local supermarket where all the cheese, meat, vegetables frozen.
The local supermarket where all the cheese, meat, vegetables frozen.
The local supermarket where all the cheese, meat, vegetables frozen.
Watching the grace of these leviathans was amazing
Watching the grace of these leviathans was amazing
These whales are only now coming back from being close to extinction. I can't believe the Japanese still hunt these whales for their meat!
Watching the grace of these leviathans was amazing
We had 15 kids from schools all over the island
We had 15 kids from schools all over the island
We worked with the Vava" environmental protection Association that was formed to educate the local people about the importance of their environment and how to take care of their habitats. Karen, its director was incredibly gracious and helpful for us .
We had 15 kids from schools all over the island
The similarity between kids in Africa, Tonga and all over the world is striking.
The similarity between kids in Africa, Tonga and all over the world is striking.
The similarity between kids in Africa, Tonga and all over the world is striking.
We discussed the  similarities between animals and habitat in Tonga and Africa.
We discussed the similarities between animals and habitat in Tonga and Africa.
We discussed the similarities between animals and habitat in Tonga and Africa.
Like African children they had little exposure to art lessons
Like African children they had little exposure to art lessons
Like African children they had little exposure to art lessons
The kids had many questions about African wildlife
The kids had many questions about African wildlife
Eight schools from around the island sent their best artists or kids interested in conservation careers for us to work with.
The kids had many questions about African wildlife
Just like African wildlife these magnificent creatures represent these children's hope for a promising future.
Just like African wildlife these magnificent creatures represent these children's hope for a promising future.
Also, just like African kids- few Tongan children ever have an opportunity to see these magnificent creatures in the wild. Since it cost about $200 to spend the day with Whales, it's far beyond their means.
Just like African wildlife these magnificent creatures represent these children's hope for a promising future.
Some of these kids were extremely talented and artistic
Some of these kids were extremely talented and artistic
Some of these kids were extremely talented and artistic
Like African children, few of these kids had ever experience their wildlife firsthand.
Like African children, few of these kids had ever experience their wildlife firsthand.
After hearing that none of these children had ever seen a whale underwater. We decided that it would be a good investment for ARTS FOR ANIMALS to send a group of these kids and one of the VEPA volunteers and a VEPA staff member to do a whale swim.
Like African children, few of these kids had ever experience their wildlife firsthand.
 The winners of the' swim with the whales' art competition.
The winners of the' swim with the whales' art competition.
So at the end of our session we had an art contest- with the best drawings winning the opportunity to swim with whales.
The winners of the' swim with the whales' art competition.
These kids were extremely proud of their art, their heritage and their culture.
These kids were extremely proud of their art, their heritage and their culture.
The artwork was amazing and we had a very difficult time choosing the winners. We wished we had enough resources to send all the kids out to swim with the whales. It became very evident to us that that experience could be a life-changing event .
These kids were extremely proud of their art, their heritage and their culture.
Watching the babies play with their mothers was amazing For us!
Watching the babies play with their mothers was amazing For us!
We could only imagine what effect this experience would have on those kids. And we can't wait to hear from them after they do their whale swim in October.
Watching the babies play with their mothers was amazing For us!
Like elephants, these huge beasts moved with grace and efficiency.
Like elephants, these huge beasts moved with grace and efficiency.
Like elephants, these huge beasts moved with grace and efficiency.
One morning Jim woke up to the cry,
One morning Jim woke up to the cry," there she blows!"
I couldn't believe my eyes one morning, when I woke up and looked out to see whales breaching just a couple of hundred feet offshore. We loaded up our cameras and some water and jumped in the kayaks. We paddled out to where they were swimming.
One morning Jim woke up to the cry," there she blows!"
  We paddled out to where we thought they would be coming by and waited.
We paddled out to where we thought they would be coming by and waited.
Jim's estimation of where they would be coming back out of the harbor turned out to be too perfect! as we floated in the kayaks, they headed straight for us and came within 5 feet of our kayaks. They submerged , swam under us and surfaced just past us!
We paddled out to where we thought they would be coming by and waited.
 It was an incredible experience as the sun glistened off the water as it boiled around us.
It was an incredible experience as the sun glistened off the water as it boiled around us.
They knew exactly where we were and avoided hitting us. 10 feet past us their tails came 6 feet of the water and they dove to the bottom! Definitely an experience of a lifetime!
It was an incredible experience as the sun glistened off the water as it boiled around us.
We stated a beautiful little four room hotel  named
We stated a beautiful little four room hotel named " the Mystic Sands"
The hotel was owned by Kjell and Adriana. They met in the Galapagos while sailing around the world and ended up falling in love with Tonga. By the end of our stay, they had become good friends.
We stated a beautiful little four room hotel named " the Mystic Sands"
At night we went to the resort next door to drink, and listen to the local band
At night we went to the resort next door to drink, and listen to the local band
At night we went to the resort next door to drink, and listen to the local band
A bench made entirely of carved whalebone, close to 100 years old
A bench made entirely of carved whalebone, close to 100 years old
We loved the culture of the Tongan people and our hosts at the hotel Maca and Mosi adopted us as if we were their own relatives. Whales are an integral part of the Tongan culture, its history and its future.
A bench made entirely of carved whalebone, close to 100 years old
The hosts at the hotel where Maca and Mosi, and they adopted us as their own.
The hosts at the hotel where Maca and Mosi, and they adopted us as their own.
The hosts at the hotel where Maca and Mosi, and they adopted us as their own.
Getting over to the whales was somewhat of an Olympic event
Getting over to the whales was somewhat of an Olympic event
Getting over to the whales was somewhat of an Olympic event
I watched in amazement as the mother whales swam with their offspring
I watched in amazement as the mother whales swam with their offspring
I watched in amazement as the mother whales swam with their offspring
They were just as curious about us as we are of them
They were just as curious about us as we are of them
Jim began humming into his snorkel. He said he thought he could raise their curiosity about us since they are hearing and singing is legendary. Amazingly, it seemed to work and several times, wheels came right up to look at him and check him out!
They were just as curious about us as we are of them
Some came close enough to look us right in the eye-Jim's favorite tune was,
Some came close enough to look us right in the eye-Jim's favorite tune was," oh Susanna"!
By the end of the trip some of the guides were calling him, the" whale whisperer"! . Neither of us could believe no one had thought about singing to them before.
Some came close enough to look us right in the eye-Jim's favorite tune was," oh Susanna"!
The people were so genuine and the market was very interesting
The people were so genuine and the market was very interesting
The people were so genuine and the market was very interesting
None
None
None
The people were always smiling and happy
The people were always smiling and happy
The people were always smiling and happy
The handicrafts on their baskets rivaled African baskets
The handicrafts on their baskets rivaled African baskets
The handicrafts on their baskets rivaled African baskets
Hunted for their oil and meat,  whales are still haunted by the Japanese
Hunted for their oil and meat, whales are still haunted by the Japanese
Perhaps the work we did with the children in Tonga somehow contribute to the long-term success of the species that visit there. The great thing about working with kids is that you never know what they will accomplish in the future.
Hunted for their oil and meat, whales are still haunted by the Japanese
In Tongapatu ,The main island, our cab driver turned out to be on the Tongan education board.
In Tongapatu ,The main island, our cab driver turned out to be on the Tongan education board.
We spent the day with him and discussed the possibility of us coming back and working with schoolchildren on the main island. We would love to set up an ARTS FOR ANIMALS program for Tongan schoolchildren. We will have to see what the future brings!
In Tongapatu ,The main island, our cab driver turned out to be on the Tongan education board.
Sunrise over the ocean in Tonga
Sunrise over the ocean in Tonga
Kjell, From Norway, and Adriana, from Ecuador, did a wonderful job in setting up this little island paradise. They have the cutest eight-year-old son,Kristen, who loves lions and we left him with the painting,"Old Soul" for his room
Sunrise over the ocean in Tonga
We will never forget our adventures on this beautiful island nation
We will never forget our adventures on this beautiful island nation
Our experiences in Tonga will stay with us for the rest of our lives. We hope to pass on the majesty of their wildlife through my art in the future.
We will never forget our adventures on this beautiful island nation
When we left, both Mosi and I cried!
When we left, both Mosi and I cried!
It was a sad day since we felt a natural connection to these wonderful people and their beautiful island nation.
When we left, both Mosi and I cried!